tj in malawi

Saturday, March 24, 2007

touristy travelling adventures...


AJ & Jarrod arrived on the 21st of Jan and stayed until the 23rd of Feb, it was a month we will never forget, of course it went to quickly, but there was no question it was just awesome awesome awesome! it really is impossible to summarise our time, so I’ll give you some highlights along the way, but I need to say, that for me everything was a highlight, just everything… even the sometimes boring little things in life were fantastic, having the company of these two amazing and hysterical guys around! Although I’m absolutely loving life here in Malawi and have made some great friends here, there really was nothing like having a bit of home here in this world!

The guys fitted into life here awesomely, and none more obvious than after they left, I tell you, the number of kids who continue to sit on my porch asking when they are coming back is just endless! We had heaps of fun, we cooked together, washed clothes together, danced in the rain together… actually that was AJ & Jarrod!! We read Shantaram together, played yahtzee, take two and uno! We caught minibuses, went to church, had water fights, aj worked with Henry making wheel chairs, Jarrod met with our doctor learning more about Malawi medicine, we explored through town, got caught in the rain, ate cinnamon bagles, strolled through craft markets, bartered for hours for clothes, shoes, calculator watches, chitenji’s, local lanterns and other random stuff. We had an absolutely fantastic time!!!

About a week into their time here, I took holidays so we could explore some of Malawi! Initially we had some trouble deciding what to do, the indecision came largely from waiting for my visa to come through so we could travel outside of the country together. One thing we knew for sure was that we wanted an adventure…and that we got!!! We divided our toursity travels into the north and south of Malawi, and we chose the north first!

We caught a bus up north that we thought would kill us, the driver was not particularly clever on corners near cliff tops, it really did feel like a rollercoaster, but without the same security of being actually attached to something for your safety. The speed wobbles were horrendous, and it didn’t seem like it would take much to end up on two wheels instead of the four, he rarely used his side of the road, instead of using the horn to notify occasional wanderers of his presence he pretty much planted his hand on the horn the entire journey as he was always winding all over the road like a manian, so a constant “im coming through…run for your lives” was actually rather necessary!! I held on so tight to the handle on the chair in front of me for fear of our lives that I eventually broke it clean off the screws, I was really hoping the wheels we were sitting above were secured more accurately than it had been!! Wow it was scary! We vowed never to catch that bus home again, and I’m sure we all prayed and stared straight ahead in between our gasps and looks of “is this for real?” but we survived. Not without developing headaches and exhaustion that was rather tiring!! For most of the trip AJ sat with his knees up near his chin, Jarrod just ate macadamia nuts all the way and I rotated between nervous giggles and sheer panic!


A great thing about AVI is the contacts! Pretty much wherever you go, if there is an avi volunteer nearby, you can always find somewhere to stay, and learn some local knowledge off them! Never more true than with Carol in Mzuzu, who completely spoilt us in our time there! She just took us in, fed us, showed us around town and lent us her car…. Which we managed to nearly crash driving all the way up a one way street oblivious that anything was wrong… actually I can imagine the guys punching me now…. I should correct that.... It was ME who drove up the wrong way! we explored town and fell in love with mzuzu, the atmosphere was certainly a laid back place, even more than Lilongwe, and we loved the markets, and loooooved the little mzuzu internet café that had banana and chocolate cake that was so good we sat one day ordering piece after piece until it was nearly gone!! The internet never actually worked for us, but the cake certainly did!

Then there was Nyika… but that’s another story for another day (having trouble uploading this update will try again later) So we hiked for 3 days across the entire stretch of Malawi’s largest national park. We flew into an inaccessible park in wet season and then comenced 80km of steep hiking in crazy weather conditions. It was one of the most amazing things we’ve ever done, simultaneously the toughest and stupidest thing we’ve ever done, but we have no regrets, cos we did it! we survived to tell the story!!!


None of us had any clean clothes, and we need to regroup a little from our hiking adventure. So we caught a bus back down to Lilongwe (not the same bus) that bus driver was also a maniac, and the volume appeared to be jammed on extreme loudness with Malawian music for the entire journey just for some more entertainment...

The Thursday was spent washing clothes…. ALL DAY…. We had occassionaly breaks to write in journals, eat food and play yahtzee…. But it really did take us all day to wash wash wash… oh and clean the mouldy fridge!!

We dropped into work to declare our victory of the walk across nyika and show off the blisters!!
Then set off on our road trip on a Friday, travelling from Lilongwe to salima, the temperature rose significantly as we came nearer to the lake shore. We stopped at the salima craft market where we spent just short of 5 hours, bargainng, chatting, exploring!! We had a great time, and heaps of wood carvings, Bau sets, paintings and "stuff" were chosen, tailor made and packed into our car! Without enough time to head to our next destination we settled at senga bay for the evening where we took a swim in the not so cool lake. The guys may have gone skinny dipping!! We met some crazy travellors and sat with them for the evening and heard all sorts of stories! Always sensational meeting all different weird & wonderful people!

Setting off to cape maclear we stopped at mua mission for a few hours and went through the mua cultural museum for a bit, had a quick picnic of bread and peanut butter before starting off on our travels again. bumped along a dirt track for what seemed like hours, enjoyed chatting along the way and seeing what sort of clearance our rental car had over terrible roads, and then we arrived at fat monkeys on the shore of cape maclear, we swam in the disgusting water, which felt like we were swimming in diseases, but loved it anyway. We had a show and tell of all the fun things purchased at the crafty markets, ate some dinner and sat up late chatting with our Icelandic friends!! The next day after a nutritious breakfast of banana pancakes we headed out on our kayacking adventures to a local island armed with snorkeling gear and suncream!

The snorkeling was amazing, I’ve never done it before, so I was a bit awkward initially but slowly mastered the art of not drowning! The water was amazingly warm and beautiful!! There are over 800 species of fish in the giant fresh water lake, and it was like swimming in an aquarium. A bit of a storm brewed up while we were lazing around snorkeling, but we made it home just before the storm hit in full force! The water developed quiet a swell of about.. hmm not sure how many meters..hehe..
Later that day we headed for mangochi, drove through a river (nice work Jarrod!) very nearly got bogged (but saved again by Jarrod!) and then arrived at our destination. We stayed with Dawn and her Brothers family who are Missionaries with Global Interaction Australia...
ok... i just ran out of money, so i have to leave the internet place now... part 2 later on!
im so massively sorry for my poor updating and emailing over these past few months! im having alot of trouble getting internet access, i do so much want to share everything with you! until next time... tsalani bwino!

Zita Chitimba....... "It happens!!"

This is my new favourite Malawian saying. And let me tell you.. “it happens A LOT”

You buy a chocolate milk only to find strawberry milk inside, you buy fresh eggs that are hard boiled, you ask for a hot chocolate and you get chocolate cake (I never mind!) You may well choose to pay extra money for a safer bus journey on the “better” bus only to spend many hours on the side of the road with three breakdowns in one journey! If you order a garden salad don’t be suprised if you only get tomatoes. Of the ten items on a menu you can only order one, as all stock has run out of the remaining items. And sure as anything that one item is the tomato salad.

In your office the photocopier, fax machine, phone line and computer will all be out of order, they are finally fixed and then the power goes out. Your fridge will break, and be replaced by a broken fridge which is then replaced by a broken fridge (and there is no happy ending to this one just yet…. Its nearly three months I have been without a functioning fridge!!)


And the winner this month… total collapse of malawi’s communication systems!!

We have two main phone providers here in Malawi… celltell and telkom, so our entire
Communications is dependant upon these two!! And with celltell being the founding company, the large majority of the countries technological infrastructure is dependant upon their services…As you can imagine, no internet, no phone lines, no banks, it seriously affected a lot of stuff. And of course the panic was rather big, so everyone on celltell tried to connect with telekom, which of course then overloaded that system drastically reducing its effectiveness… But how this disaster in communications came about, and how it managed to affect the entire countries phone lines is rather amusing!

So…. there was a fire in the celltell head office down in Blantyre, our commercial capital of Malawi. The fire started on the fourth floor, amazingly the fire brigade did actually arrive, often they don’t cos they don’t have transport, but they did, only to discover they couldn’t actually reach the fourth floor as the ladders didn’t reach that high… zita chitimba! ...... so… they proceeded to put the fire out from the level of the third floor. Then to discover that the water had run out…. Oops!..... oh and they had forgotted to bring the hoses to connect to the water supply of the building. So the four storey building burnt to the ground.

Hmm….

Thursday, March 01, 2007

i am i am i am still alive!

...yes despite a long absence from communications with everyone, im alive and well, and have sooooo much fun stuff to share! i have just had the most awesome 5 weeks or so, travelling around malawi with AJ & Jarrod having such a fabulous fantastic and totally unforgettable time, i miss them terribly, and have been crazy busy since they left as well, just finished a long weekend of the "australian volunteers international in country meeting/conference thingy" at an awesome resorty place on the lake, then i've been lecturing at Kachera Rehabilitation hospital in Blantyre while hanging out with my new awesome friend Dawn! and now about to embark on a long bus ride home, its been 5 weeks now since i have lived at home "normally", so i hope to catch you up with all my news in the next week or so, and i tell you, you're in for a GREAT read!!

miss you all!!